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Croatia may not seem the obvious destination for a year-old, but after lots of hard work last year, I was after indulgence, relaxation — and sobriety. A good friend, Bobby, is Croatian and after hearing him talk about lobster spaghetti, sunshine and rocky beaches, my best friend Pippa and I were keen to check it out, though we vowed we'd rise and sleep early all week — quite a commitment.
First stop was Dubrovnik, once a rival to Venice. We were staying only one night, in the swanky Hotel Excelsior , so headed straight to the old town in search of that famed spaghetti.
After two glasses of very good local wine in a charming bar, we forgot all about the pasta mission. Instead, we had some ice-cream from a stall and lost ourselves within the city walls. This city is used as a backdrop in many a film requiring medieval architecture, and we couldn't help feeling a bit guilty that our husbands weren't with us — it is one of the most romantic places I've been.
Next morning, we set off for the island of Hvar. You can fly, but we opted for a drive along the coast and a ferry. This was the most memorable and beautiful part of the trip: the crystal-clear Adriatic, the rocky, meandering landscape.
The boat was packed, with a lot of Italians and, surprisingly, Americans. It seems we Brits are a little slow on the uptake when it comes to Croatia's treats. We disembarked at Stari Grad, its harbour crammed full of huge yachts, to be greeted by a woman who announced: "Welcome to the party island! The old town of Hvar is charming. St Stephen's Square is a portside hub of activity, surrounded by bars and restaurants, and narrow, winding streets lead away from the seafront; further back from the shore, the hills are lined with medieval walls built to protect the inhabitants from pirates how exciting!